The story
In the heart of the Herrmannsdorfer Landwerkstätten, a working farm estate in Glonn, the Wirtshaus zum Herrmannsdorfer Schweinsbräu serves honest country cooking that has earned a Michelin Recommended badge – and a Green Michelin Star for its deep-rooted sustainability. This is not a stage-managed fine dining room. It is a living, breathing place: from your table you can see the bakery, and directly below lie the butchery and cheese dairy. Staff move crates, colleagues take breaks on the gallery above the dining room. The atmosphere is lively, full of depth, art, and clarity.
Since autumn 2024, Olimpia Cario has been the owner and sole chef. She has been in gastronomy since 1993 and works alone in the kitchen by choice. “Cooking needs time, love, silence,” she says. Her dishes are clear, bold, and deeply anchored in the present. She uses what is around her: the farm, the season, the people. And she does it in a dress – not chef whites – tailored for her by Jenni B. from Parma. Twice a year, a fashion show takes place right in the restaurant. Even dance classes have found their way into the house. For Cario, pleasure begins where you feel yourself.
The menu is a celebration of simplicity done well. Classics like Schweinebraten (slow-cooked for 12 hours with crispy crackling, served with Semmelknödel and Krautsalat), Wiener Schnitzel vom Schwein, and Goldhirseknödel are mainstays. But the kitchen also experiments with fine, daring combinations. The 5-course surprise menu (available Saturdays with reservation) is a direct expression of what Cario feels, tastes, and wants to share – always aligned with the season and the moment. There is no industrial processing, no artificial flavour enhancers. Many ingredients come directly from the farm.
The Michelin inspectors have taken note, awarding both a Recommendation and a Green Star. The restaurant’s website quotes the guide: “Ein Ökobetrieb mit Seltenheitswert” – an organic operation of rare value. This is country cooking at its most principled: sustainable not as a concept, but as everyday practice. As the team puts it: “We reach for the stars with both feet on the ground.”
Recognition
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