Der Feinschmecker — 4
Concept
Haute cuisine presented as a "culinary journey" across 4 or 6 courses, available in both vegetarian and omnivore versions, along with numerous small bites served as amuse-bouches and petits fours. Special offers on Wednesdays and Thursdays for guests under 30.
Culinary Style
The Lorrainer Cédric Schwitzer, arguably the region's most creative chef, sustains an exceptionally high standard throughout his culinary journey from "Waldbronn to Paris." Each course is accompanied by a "boarding pass" featuring a color photograph of the dish and a schematic diagram of its artistic plating. His four Mises-en-Bouche are served in a spherical composition of four horizontal layers, each delivering an aesthetic and flavor marvel—for instance, a slice of overripe tomato dehydrated into a crisp chip and stuffed with confit tomato cream. This is paired with hare alongside elderberry and pistachio, and a striking deep-red creation of beetroot, apple balsamic, and shiso. The tasting menu is equally impressive, beginning with a preparation of herb oyster mushroom cream that subtly evokes foie gras with a lightly toasted note. The sweet finale features Valrhona-Caramélia, a blend of grand cru chocolates infused with orange and cardamom, complemented by exquisite petits fours.
Wine
Primarily focused on French wines. The wine selection flawlessly complements the exceptional menu without any drop in quality.
Ambiance
An intimate dining room with a living-room feel, featuring just four tables and a Chef's Table.
Verdict
It is what it is: one of the finest kitchens in Baden-Württemberg.