Hirsch Genusshandwerk

The story

Hirsch Genusshandwerk in Monakam: Seasonal Cuisine with a Michelin Recommendation

Heimat on a Plate

In the small village of Monakam, just outside Bad Liebenzell, Hirsch Genusshandwerk is a family-run gasthaus where the seasons dictate the menu. Chef Andreas Sondej runs the kitchen with a philosophy rooted in the immediate landscape: fruit and vegetables come from his own garden and the hands of "Opa Knapp," a local grower who supplies the restaurant with everything from potatoes and tomatoes to berries and apples. The result is a kitchen that works in close, natural cycles.

The Craft of Taste

The cooking here is deliberately unadorned. "We create handcrafted, authentic dishes that need no grand staging," the team explains. The entire menu changes every four weeks, ensuring that guests taste the year's full rhythm. A four-week cycle means that a visit in early spring offers something entirely different from one in late autumn. The menu is small and focused, built around what is ripe and ready.

Sondej brings a notable influence from the North Sea. After six years as head chef at the two-Michelin-starred Sölring Hof on Sylt, working under Johannes King, he combines a Nordic appreciation for natural, pristine flavours with the local produce of the Black Forest. This "Nordwind" approach is especially evident in the restaurant's fish dishes, sourced from trusted suppliers like Krabben Urthel and Deutsche See.

A Family Tradition of Distilling

Beyond the kitchen, the Sondej family has a long history of distilling, with a family distilling right passed down through generations. In 2021, Andreas Sondej built a new distillery barn, fulfilling a long-held dream. The fruit for the brandies and liqueurs—mostly pears, apples, and berries—is handpicked from local orchards in the Northern Black Forest. After a gentle fermentation, the spirits are distilled in small batches and aged for at least one year in a sandstone cellar. The result is a small collection of pure, seasonal fruit brandies that guests can enjoy on-site or take home as a "Genussandenken" (a little souvenir of taste).

An Honest Setting

The restaurant itself is described as familiarly cosy, a space that matches the straightforward, welcoming nature of the food. The dining room is wheelchair accessible, and there is outdoor seating for warmer months. The wine list, like the kitchen, balances regional selections with a few international bottles that complement the seasonal, seasonal cuisine.

Hirsch Genusshandwerk's commitment to honest, high-quality cooking has earned it a Michelin recommendation, a recognition that aligns perfectly with its ethos: letting the ingredient speak for itself, in its own time.