The story
In the quiet town of Sulzburg, near Müllheim, the Hirschen is a family-run restaurant where chef Douce Steiner defines her own path. She is Germany’s only female chef to hold two Michelin stars, and in 2025, Der Feinschmecker named her “Köchin des Jahres” (Chef of the Year), praising her cooking as “zum Niederknien!” – to kneel for. Gault & Millau awarded her the same title in 2023. These accolades are earned through cooking that is both precise and personal.
The philosophy here is simple: “Geschmack Pur – Natürlich und unverfälscht” (Pure Taste – Natural and Unadulterated). Steiner’s kitchen is driven by a deep respect for ingredients. Her seasonal cuisine is a study in clarity, a modern, exacting style that finds its own accents. A classic bouillabaisse, for example, is rethought with mango as an unexpected, balancing note.
The menu, called “Menu Douce,” changes with the season. A recent winter edition features a Wagyu beef slice with verbena pepper and grilled scallops on a Williams pear jus, followed by a green parsley ravioli with magnolia aromas. The main course offers a choice: a Bresse chicken truffled with Périgord truffle and topinambur, or a poached bison filet with foie gras under a celery leaf. The meal concludes with a dessert surprise of pineapple, palm hearts, and pandan, or Valrhona chocolate with apple and black truffle. A dedicated truffle menu is also available, showcasing the black Périgord variety in dishes from scallops to chocolate.
The atmosphere is one of unhurried pleasure. Guests are welcomed to begin their evening with an aperitif in the charming inner courtyard or the Vogesenstube before moving to the dining room. Steiner’s own words capture the spirit: “Glück ist, wenn der Verstand tanzt, das Herz atmet und die Augen lieben” – happiness is when the mind dances, the heart breathes, and the eyes love. At Hirschen, that feeling is served with precision and warmth.
Recognition
Ambience
Location