UMO

A hidden gem in Víziváros (Waterside Town), tucked away in the inner courtyard of what used to be the monastery of the Capuchin church on the Buda side. You will likely hear more foreign languages than Hungarian – no surprise, given the partly international team, the tourist-heavy location below Buda Castle, and the close connection to the Monastery boutique hotel right next door. Umo is run by well-known names in the Hungarian hospitality scene, the owners of Arany Kaviár and MoszkvaTéЯ Bisztró, the latter located just on the other side of the building. In the evening light, the courtyard of Umo is simply magical. Surrounded by trees and a lush green plant wall, it feels more like a garden party than a city restaurant. The name “Umo” means “smoke”, and that is exactly what you get: an outdoor grill kitchen, complete with a beautiful Basque charcoal oven and a classic Green Egg grill. Stacks of firewood line the counter outside, setting the mood, Umo brings the spirit of Latin American and Spanish open-fire cooking to Budapest. At the heart of it all is co-owner Fanni Molnár, who studied in the Basque Country and fell in love with Spanish-speaking kitchens. The dishes are rooted in authentic recipes, spiced up with some Asian influence, and made with excellent local ingredients from Hungarian corn to trappista cheese. Their supplier, Farm2Fork, guarantees quality. And in this type of cuisine, freshness is everything, especially when it comes to fish and seafood. The wine and champagne list is unique, with a broad mix of Hungarian and international bottles. Cocktails are served on stylish, separate cards – a nice touch. Smoky flavours, light and balanced dishes (even with all the meat!), and a cosmopolitan vibe. A solid choice, all year round.