The story
Just outside Bergamo, in Almenno San Bartolomeo, Collina is the domain of chef Mario Cornali. The restaurant has earned a Michelin Recommended award, a recognition that feels natural for a kitchen where “cooking food means carrying out the most obvious and primordial of tasks, while cooking art means leaving a mark, ephemeral and indelible at the same time.”
That line from Collina’s own website captures the spirit here. Cornali describes the creative dish as “a work that incorporates and combines the known and the unknown, translating them into a new form, as is the case with every artistic creation.” It’s a philosophy that plays out in two distinct eight-course tasting menus. One is a general journey through modern cuisine, priced at €90 (excluding wine). The other, Acqua dolce…, is dedicated entirely to fish from the fishermen of Lario (Lake Como) – a clear nod to the restaurant’s seafood focus and its connection to the region.
The setting matches the ambition. The restaurant’s approach to hospitality is deliberate: “To host means to make people feel good, to give beauty. There is no absolute beauty; hospitality is an ever-changing fruit that reflects the soul of the one who welcomes.” Collina avoids ostentation, seeking instead a sign that is both universal and distinctive. There is also a cigar room for those who appreciate a quiet finish to the evening.
Chef Cornali’s reputation extends beyond Michelin. In 2019, he was named Italy’s best chef for web reputation (over 30 category) and celebrated with a special Chef Awards Italian Tour dinner, featuring a piano performance and a menu that included dishes like Carnaroli risotto with Blu di bufala cheese and pears in red wine, and a crispy pastry of ancient corn with buffalo milk ice cream.
Collina is a place for diners who appreciate thoughtfulness on the plate and genuine warmth in the room. The tasting menus change with the seasons, but the commitment to modern cuisine with a strong sense of place remains constant.
Recognition
Ambience
Location