The story
In Lain Hotel Cadonau in Livigno serves refined Engadin cuisine from a kitchen shaped by rigorous apprenticeships. Chef Dario Cadonau trained under Philippe Rochat and Harald Wohlfahrt before transforming a seventeenth century farmhouse into a dual dining concept. His Michelin starred venue, Vivanda, consistently draws praise from GaultMillau critics for balancing precision with local produce. This approach proves that Engadin cooking can honor its alpine roots while maintaining exacting standards.
Textural contrast defines many dishes here. A trout tartare arrives alongside spinach and quail egg foam, followed by roasted sea bass paired with earthy radish served as a sponge and lemon foam. Veal jowl and tenderloin appear with truffle jus, celery purée, and crisp Pommes Anna, showing how Swiss-Italian cooking blends French discipline with local products. The pastry team closes the service with layered desserts featuring mandarin, chili, hibiscus, and green tea.
The property name translates to “in wood,” a material that shapes every corner of the building. Brother Marco Cadonau designed the interiors using locally sourced stone pine, larch, and fir from the surrounding forests. Guests move through spaces where exposed beams meet minimalist layouts and curated furnishings. The dining rooms themselves feel grounded rather than ostentatious, creating an environment where regional gastronomy feels accessible rather than rigid.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
We treated ourselves to a short break in the Engadin at the In Lain and, this time, dined not at the gourmet restaurant Vivanda, but at the rustic wood-paneled Stüvetta. Here too, proprietor Dario Cadonau offers a tasting menu and an à la carte selection. On the first evening, we ordered the menu and started with tomatoes, burrata, and a rather unremarkable herb and basil pesto, followed by an aromatic lemon and alpine herb soup with a fried giant prawn. We also had pan-fried dorade fillets accompanied by lightly fluffy lemon gnocchi that were more reminiscent of pasta in texture. On the second day, we ordered à la carte: a light tomato essence with a fried scallop, an elegant carrot tartare with delicate smoky notes, carrot sorbet, and wild herbs, as well as tender veal fillet strips in a wonderfully creamy, slightly tangy sauce, served with rösti and green summer vegetables (sugar snap peas, zucchini, and peas). For dessert, we enjoyed a delicate peach biscuit with peach sorbet.
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