The story
Andrea Berton’s career began in the 1990s at Gualtiero Marchesi’s Milan kitchen, then took him to London’s Mossiman’s, Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, and Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV in Monte Carlo. He earned his first Michelin star at Taverna di Colloredo di Monte Albano, followed by two stars at Trussardi alla Scala in Milan. In 2013 he opened his own restaurant in the Porta Nuova district — a location he had long envisioned: “Every day while walking in front of Porta Nuova Varesine construction yard I used to think: my restaurant will born there.”
The space is linear and elegant, with large windows overlooking the futuristic Porta Nuova skyline. The cuisine is described as “modern and immediate” — a refined Italian Contemporary style that centers on the ingredient and its story. Seasonality drives the menu, and the goal is balance between flavors and textures.
The restaurant’s signature offering is “Non solo Brodo” (Not only Broth), a tasting menu that elevates broth from a simple preparation to a narrative device. The €180, eight-course journey includes a salad broth with grilled romaine, peanuts, and tamarind; a squid broth with grilled squid, beets, and blackberries; and a lamb broth with coffee and chicory. Desserts like strawberry and cascara broth with meringue and lemon sorbet close the meal. A second tasting menu, “Porta Nuova” (€175), offers dishes such as pigeon lasagna and charcoal-grilled pork pluma.
For those who want to go further, an exclusive chef’s table for two overlooks the kitchen, offering a free menu proposed by the chef. A private room with a hidden screen accommodates up to eight for meetings or events. A daily business lunch and off-site catering are also available. The restaurant has held a Michelin star since 2014, a recognition that reflects the precision and clarity of Berton’s cooking.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
High quality cooking
There is a sense of belonging to Milan in Andrea Berton, who, being Friulian, is not originally from the city. But his history speaks for itself (starting at Marchesi and ascending to the culinary Olympus at Trussardi in Piazza della Scala), and the rest is delivered through the dishes, the menu journeys, and the visuals that arrive at the table inspired by the shapes of Porta Nuova’s skyscrapers—the neighborhood where his restaurant is located—which accompany the “crackers” presented when the dining experience begins. The choice lies between a broth-focused menu, one dedicated to the white truffle (€320, but that’s simply what the tuber commands), and a third called Porta Nuova, from which we selected two iconic dishes: the risotto alla pizzaiola, prepared with mozzarella whey, so compelling that the more you eat, the more you’ll want; and the roasted sole à la meunière, accompanied by crispy grilled curly kale and a Milanese sauce richly infused with saffron. The wine list is extensive yet accessible, offering excellent bottles even at the €40–50 range per bottle, and the service lives up to expectations.
Location
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