Verso

The story

Verso Milan Review: Modern Italian Dining at Piazza del Duomo

The Chefs and the Kitchen

At Verso in Milan, contemporary Italian cuisine meets the dining room through an open chef’s table format where brothers Remo and Mario Capitaneo manage their Puglian-rooted kitchen. Trained under Carlo Cracco and Andrea Berton before serving as Enrico Bartolini’s deputies, they translate decades of rigorous schooling into clean, uncluttered plates. Their approach favors technique that highlights seasonal produce rather than masking it. Recognition from the 2026 50 Top Italy guide confirms the clarity of vision that defines their daily service.

Standout Dishes

The tasting menu unfolds across six or eight courses, anchored by dishes like veal sweetbread paired with sea urchins and a coffee béarnaise sauce. King crab spaghettoni arrive alongside marasciuoli and finger lime, while blue lobster rests with wagyu beef and peach. Each plate maintains a sharp balance, reflecting a disciplined Italian cooking style that avoids heavy sauces in favor of direct ingredient communication. A two course upgrade allows guests to extend the progression toward desserts featuring figs, riesling, and Sichuan pepper.

Room and Atmosphere

Three chef’s tables face the open kitchen while three traditional tables line the perimeter, creating a layout that balances visibility with quiet conversation. The floor plan directs larger parties toward the tasting journey while keeping smaller groups flexible enough for à la carte ordering. Sommeliers Marco Matta and Valeria Biancini curate a focused wine program built around rare champagnes and Burgundy vintages. Polished stone floors and muted lighting create a calm backdrop that lets the food take center stage.