The story
Since 1890, Prato Gaio has been a presence in the Alta Valle Versa. The restaurant, run today by Giorgio Liberti, is a direct expression of the Oltrepò Pavese region. As the Liberti family puts it, “Prato Gaio è e vuole essere Oltrepò Pavese.” This philosophy is not a slogan – it is the foundation of everything that happens in the kitchen and at the table. The values of tradition, culture, and civility, passed down generation after generation, shape the restaurant’s identity. This commitment earned Prato Gaio a Michelin Recommended distinction in 2026, as well as the Slow Food Chiocciola award in the Osterie d’Italia guide for its deeply territorial cuisine.
The cooking at Prato Gaio is a celebration of “naturalità dei sapori tipici oltrepadani” – the natural flavours of the Oltrepò, prepared with the simple techniques that were once the sublime art of country cooking. Giorgio Liberti recalls his childhood in the small kitchen of the old osteria, listening to his grandmother Rosa and mother Ester as they peeled, sliced, and cooked everything that could go into a pot. That unconscious initiation became a “grassa memoria” – a rich memory of salumi, soups, roasts, and stews. His father Vittorio and brother Mariano began collecting those recipes in the 1970s and 80s, when traditional cuisine was often overlooked by critics. Their work ensured that most of those dishes continue to live on the menu today.
The spring menu at Prato Gaio reads like a family archive. It opens with a selection of salumi from the Alta Valle Versa, including coppa and pancetta aged in the restaurant’s own cellar. Antipasti like “duls in brüsc” – a sweet-sour chicken breast from an ancient peasant recipe – and warm cotechino with carrot and almond flan set the tone. Among the primi, the agnolotti di manzo in surbir (in a rich broth with a splash of red wine) and the tortelli di ricotta e asparagi stand out. The “Un mare d’Oltrepò” soup, with white onions, anchovy sauce, and skewered sardines and baccalà, pays homage to the preserved fish that once reached these valleys from the sea. All pasta is handmade with stone-ground flour from Molino Bruciamonti Siro in Santa Maria della Versa.
Secondi include guancialino di maiale slow-cooked in white wine, lamb chops in a crust of almonds and pistachios, and a forgotten peasant classic reimagined: collo ripieno al fegato grasso d’oca (stuffed goose neck) with red onion jam, raspberries, and horseradish. The cheese selection features local gems like Strachitunt from Val Taleggio and Blu di bufala lombarda.
The wine list, called “La Gaia Carta,” is a natural extension of the kitchen’s philosophy. It features only wines from the Oltrepò Pavese, reflecting the harmony between the region’s native grape varieties and the food they accompany. The restaurant works with local suppliers who share its commitment to quality and tradition, ensuring that every ingredient – from the cured meats to the vegetables – tells the story of this corner of Lombardy.
Recognition
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