The story
La Locanda dei Beccaria sits in the quiet hamlet of Montù Beccaria, in the Oltrepò Pavese hills south of Milan. It was born from a lifelong passion for cooking and wine, a dream long cherished by its owners. The restaurant, which recently earned a Michelin Recommended distinction for 2026, is the realisation of sharing decades of experience gathered both behind the stove and in the cellar – not only of their own home but also of many friends who are great restaurateurs and vintners.
For the past twenty-five years, Luisa Ghioni and Franco Casella have translated what began as a pleasant pastime into dedicated work. The kitchen became their home, and the dining room a place to share the pleasure of good food and honest wine with the guests who have followed them on this journey.
Luisa Ghioni leads the kitchen with a sharp eye for raw ingredients, transforming them into preparations that marry the solid flavours of tradition with the suggestions of modern cooking. Her true passion, she admits, lies in pastry – a sweet side to a character not usually given to sugary excess.
Franco Casella, a veteran of the Italian food and wine scene, brings a globe-trotting career to the table. Over forty years of friendship with some of Italy’s greatest gastronomic figures have given him a deep well of knowledge that he applies both to the stove and the wine list. The dining room is handled by Julijana Cvetkova, whose warmth and attentiveness bridge the space between kitchen and guest.
The restaurant is also a proud member of the Unione Ristoranti del Buon Ricordo, an association that since 1964 has championed Italy’s regional culinary traditions. La Locanda participates in Tavole Oltrepò, a local association of restaurateurs passionate about promoting the Oltrepò Pavese through quality and professionalism.
The menu is firmly rooted in the Oltrepò territory. Starters include a cupoletta of pumpkin with fondue and diced cotechino, or a battuta of Fassona beef with a selection of sauces. Pasta is handmade: agnolotti in a braised-meat broth, pappardelle with hare salmì, or stracci of fresh pasta tossed in walnut sauce.
For second courses, a cappello del prete brasato with polenta from Mulino Bruciamonti, duck breast with apples and balsamic, or a grilled fillet of Fassona beef. The wine list draws heavily from the surrounding hills, and the restaurant’s deep cellar experience is evident in every pairing.
Two fixed menus are offered: the “Buon Ricordo” menu, celebrating tradition with dishes like risotto Oltrepò and braised cappello del prete, and the “Acqua” degustation menu, a lighter four-course journey through seafood and local produce. Both change with the season.
The locanda is a place of understated warmth. Service is by reservation only, with an emphasis on making each guest feel at home. Outside seating is available, and private parties can be arranged. The atmosphere is one of genuine hospitality – the sort of place where the owners themselves are often present, ensuring that every detail reflects their twenty-five years of dedication.
La Locanda dei Beccaria is not about flash or fad. It is about the slow, honest accumulation of knowledge and taste, shared generously with those who come to the table.
Recognition
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