The story
MEI in Nagoya serves an Italian seasonal cuisine built around ingredients harvested directly from the Chubu coast and mountains. Kunanobu Takahata spent a full year at the central fish market learning how handling and tide conditions alter seafood before he ever plated a dish. He continues that hands-on approach by gathering wild mushrooms and foraged vegetables himself, then sourcing game through licensed hunting expeditions. This ground-level ingredient knowledge anchors his work, which recently earned him fifteen points from the Gault & Millau 2026 guide.
Seven wooden stools line the narrow counter where diners watch each course take shape without unnecessary theatrics. Takahata applies Italian-style cooking principles to local proteins and forest harvests, yet refuses to let any single tradition dictate the plate. Each dish stays deliberately restrained so the natural texture of the fish, the earthiness of the mushrooms, or the lean quality of the game can speak plainly. The tableware follows this same quiet logic, chosen specifically to leave breathing room around every portion rather than compete with it.
Kaho Takahata curates the beverage program from behind the same counter, drawing heavily from Burgundy, Italy, and domestic vineyards. She treats wine as a structural element rather than a highlight reel, matching bottles to the temperature and finish of whatever is currently being served. The selection avoids heavy tannins or overpowering sweetness when the kitchen is highlighting delicate shellfish or lightly cooked greens. Non-alcoholic sparkling options and craft spirits round out a menu designed to keep the pacing steady and the focus firmly on the food.
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