The story
Since the very first Michelin Guide Nara, Koikiryori Aji Manso has held a star – a testament to its consistent, quietly excellent cooking. Chef-owner Nagata Koji opened the restaurant in 1984 after years of training in Kyoto’s Gion, Kobe, and Osaka. His approach is direct: source the best seasonal ingredients from across Japan and let them speak.
Nagata’s personality is as integral to the experience as his cooking. Regulars – some spanning three generations – return as much for his warm, unpretentious conversation as for the food. The counter seats offer a front-row view of his work, and for those who book the full restaurant for a private evening, he will tailor a bespoke course just for you. Private rooms are also available for more formal gatherings.
The menu changes weekly, reflecting the finest produce of the moment. Vegetables arrive direct from Soni village in Nara; seafood is sourced from around the country. A signature dish is the katsusen: three different preparations of the day’s best ingredients – perhaps a refreshing nama junsai tororo okura, or nama hamo buru cheese (raw conger eel with blue cheese), or o-toro with domestic caviar. Another standout is the amadai Hakata-oshi – layered sea bream, kelp, and cucumber pressed in the Hakata style, finished with a puree of Manganji pepper that heightens the fish’s sweetness.
The dining room is calm and refined, with both counter and private rooms. English and Italian are spoken, and the kitchen can accommodate vegan and allergy requests. A full course at lunch runs from ¥5,000 to ¥10,000; dinner from ¥15,000. For a truly special experience, the ¥25,000 counter-only course is entirely customised to your preferences.
Koikiryori Aji Manso is a restaurant that earns its accolades through years of steady, thoughtful work – a place where the food, the setting, and the host all feel genuinely of a piece.
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