Sushidokoro Hirokawa

The story

Sushidokoro Hirokawa in Osaka – Michelin-Starred Sushi Crafted by Chef Morioka

Sushi that makes you say, “I want one more piece”

At Sushidokoro Hirokawa in Osaka’s Kyobashi district, chef-owner Hirotsugu Morioka has built a reputation on a simple, heartfelt promise: to serve sushi that makes guests think, “I want one more piece.” Since opening in 2005 in a space once run by his mother, Morioka has steadily refined his craft, earning a Michelin star that has been renewed every year since 2011.

The name “Hirokawa” is a personal homage — combining “Hiro” from his own name with “kawa” from his master’s, evoking a river that widens and flows endlessly. That spirit of continuous growth is reflected in every detail of the meal.

The pursuit of simplicity and depth

Morioka’s approach to Japanese cuisine is rooted in restraint. He sources ingredients not only from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market but also from local Osaka markets and select producers across Japan, choosing each piece for its quality. To let the natural flavors shine, he applies minimal intervention — no heavy seasoning, no unnecessary embellishment. What remains is clean, deeply satisfying sushi.

One standout is the anago (sea eel), praised for its fluffy texture that melts on the tongue. The shari (vinegared rice) is chosen for its ideal firmness and stickiness, and every element — from the heat applied to the fish to the precise amount of salt — is treated with meticulous care.

Atmosphere and tableware

Dining here is an experience for the eyes as well as the palate. Morioka uses lacquerware plates that make the neta (toppings) look even more vivid, and blue small bowls that bring a touch of elegance to the simpler dishes. The counter seats offer an intimate view of the chef at work, and the service is warm and unpretentious — aiming for a space where guests feel truly comfortable and well cared for.

A chef’s journey

Morioka’s path to sushi was not straightforward. He could not eat raw fish when he first started working at a lively, affordable Edomae sushi shop in a working-class neighborhood. Watching senior chefs swiftly handle takeout orders of chirashi, maki, and battera inspired him. Over time, his mentors taught him how to eliminate fishy odors and draw out umami. Visiting celebrated restaurants, he discovered how delicious sushi could truly be — and decided to become a craftsman who could make that happen.

Even now, Morioka continues to learn from every chef he meets, across all culinary genres. “I’m still not there yet,” he says — a mindset that keeps him improving for the guests who walk through his door.