The story
At PARCO FIERA in Sapporo, Italian-inspired cooking meets a strict zero-waste philosophy. Chef Daisuke Nakajo grew up surrounded by craftsmen in Hokkaido and refined his technique through stints in Tokyo and Piedmont before relocating to Teine ward. He opened an initial osteria in 2018 and pivoted to a fixed course format in 2020, adopting a name derived from the Italian phrase for fair ground. His former mentor’s grandmother suggested the title, and Nakajo still uses that balance concept to guide operations.
Daily procurement begins at the wholesale market and nearby farms to secure fish, vegetables, and mountain harvests before midday. This seasonal kitchen refuses to discard bones, skins, seeds, or peels, instead transforming these components into broths and dried garnishes. Dry-cured prosciutto remains the central signature, served as thin slices or integrated into complex plates while sodium levels and protein structures receive precise calculations. Pesticide-free herbs grow indoors and ripe fruits age into house wines that complement the main courses.
Guests sit closely to watch the kitchen assemble dishes during lunch and dinner sessions that begin with last call ten minutes early. The layout encourages quiet conversation while staff share brief explanations about ingredient sourcing and preservation methods. This disciplined approach to modern Italian cuisine earned a Gault&Millau score of fifteen for 2026, validating a dining model that prioritizes digestive health alongside flavor. The consistent scoring reflects a straightforward commitment to transparent sourcing and careful temperature control.
Recognition
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