The story
Korian in Takashima rests along the shoreline of Lake Biwa, where seventh-generation head chef Kihiro Sasa guides a kitchen dedicated to Japanese cooking grounded in the local terroir. The name recalls the visits of the late author Shusaku Endo, who frequented the property when it operated under a former title, linking the establishment to a history of appreciation for this specific corner of Japan. Located in the port town of Kaizu, the menu centers on the harvest of the lake and nearby mountains, translating the raw materials of the region into dishes that honor the six generations of care preceding the current leadership.
A Gault&Millau score of 16 highlights the precision of preparations such as funazushi, a fermented specialty crafted from carp native to these waters. The kitchen applies this same rigor to seasonal vegetables and river fish, ensuring each course delivers the distinct flavor profile dictated by the climate and geography of the basin. This acclaim reflects a consistent approach to Japanese cuisine that values authenticity and ingredient quality, allowing the natural characteristics of the produce to dictate the final presentation while preserving the integrity of traditional techniques.
Functioning as an oberjue with a capacity limited to one party per day, the venue encourages a slow engagement with the surroundings, where changes in light, scent, and breeze become part of the meal. The current structure emerged after Typhoon 21 caused catastrophic damage in September 2018, requiring a reconstruction phase that concluded with the reopening in April 2021. This renewed foundation supports a space designed for contemplation, offering guests the opportunity to experience the enduring character of the coast while enjoying meals prepared with the full weight of local heritage.
Recognition
Ambience