Tempura Kondo

The story

Tempura Kondo: Michelin-Starred Tempura Master in Ginza, Tokyo

Tempura Kondo: A Master's Philosophy in Ginza

At Tempura Kondo in Tokyo's Ginza district, chef Fumio Kondo has spent over fifty years perfecting a singular vision: tempura as a form of steaming, not merely frying. His approach is one of extreme lightness. The batter, made with wheat flour, is thinned to the absolute limit, ensuring it absorbs minimal oil. This allows the natural colors and aromas of each ingredient to shine, while the heat and trapped moisture gently coax out the ingredient's inherent umami.

Kondo's philosophy extends to his pioneering use of vegetables. Traditional Edomae tempura centered on seafood, but Kondo believed that to elevate tempura into a complete culinary genre—on par with French or other Japanese cuisines—vegetables were essential. He personally sources his produce, tasting each item before committing. His signature dish, a thick-cut sweet potato tempura, is fried slowly for about thirty minutes, locking in moisture and sweetness so effectively that it rivals the finest roasted sweet potato.

This dedication to craft has earned Tempura Kondo two stars in the Michelin Guide Tokyo every year since 2008. In 2019, Kondo became the first tempura chef named a "Modern Master" (Gendai no Meiko) by the Japanese government, and in 2023 he received the Mentor Chef Award from Michelin and Blancpain for his role in nurturing the next generation. At the counter, Kondo himself fries each piece, a testament to his belief that tempura is a personal invitation from the chef to the guest.