The story
In Erlinsbach, just outside Aarau, the Hirschen describes itself as an "Ort des kulinarischen Handwerks" – a place of culinary craftsmanship. Run by Albi and Silvana von Felten, this wine hotel & restaurant has earned a Michelin recommendation for its commitment to regional, sustainable gastronomy.
The kitchen’s guiding philosophy is "Jurassic Cuisine," a style that puts the finest products from the Jura hills on the plate. The Hirschen works with top producers from the region, letting authentic flavours speak for themselves. The result is classic cuisine that feels grounded and generous – the kind of cooking that respects the ingredient first.
Wine is central to the Hirschen experience. The team works directly with vintners from the surrounding area, curating a list that reflects the local landscape. Whether you dine in the main house or on the garden terrace, the pairing of food and wine is taken seriously, yet never feels stiff.
The restaurant also hosts regular events – from star-gazing multivision shows paired with a four-course dinner, to jazz lunches and storytelling evenings. These gatherings reflect the warmth and curiosity that define the house.
The Hirschen is more than a restaurant: it is a hotel with several buildings, including the Weinhaus am Bach and the Haus zum Hirschen. Guests can stay overnight and explore the Jura mountains and the Aare river routes right on the doorstep.
Albi and Silvana von Felten and their team welcome guests daily, offering a place where hospitality is personal and the food tells a story of the land.
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History
We had bad luck. Instead of sitting in the spacious dining room, we had to take a seat at the cat table in the Stübli, because the Hirschen was packed once again. As always, patron Albi von Felten was omnipresent and bustling at the front of house, while in the kitchen, since autumn 2024, a new but familiar face stands out: Diego Fry, who was already a chef de partie here previously. His kitchen remains focused on regional produce from the area at the southern foot of the Jura mountains; however, the classic menu has been reduced in size, with the addition of a gourmet menu and a vegetarian menu. The amuse-bouches are still called Schnöiggerli: foam, tartare, and jelly made from Geneva cardy vegetables. There was also a pikeperch carpaccio served on coagulated egg yolk with mushrooms and cucumber essence. Truly magnificent was the inventive smoked garlic soup paired with blood orange sorbet and jelly. The harmonious main course also won us over: premium Söili from the Jura highlands, accompanied by a medley of feather cabbage, pear, rosehip, and gnocchi. Two desserts rounded off the evening: a refreshing pre-dessert of orange foam and orange granité, followed by a stunning crème brûlée with gin-infused cream and fruity apple sorbet. The establishment boasts a massive, multi-award-winning wine list and a wine cellar that simply couldn’t be more beautiful. The service, however, we have experienced more attentive and less frantic at the Hirschen in the past. We’ll chalk that up to the completely packed house.
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