The story
Taverna Romana im Sternen in Aarau operates as a straightforward Italian kitchen where Daniel Meola commands the stove and Mariana oversees the dining room. The pair favors direct recommendations over rigid printed menus, which allows them to adjust portions and ingredients daily. This hands-on rhythm keeps the service intimate and the pacing steady.
Diners typically start with lightly warmed focaccia served alongside a delicate porcini mousse, then move to salmon tartare dressed with lemon pearls and shaved zucchini. The kitchen prepares thick, folded slices of roast veal filled with tuna mousse for the vitello tonnato, followed by pasta shapes like ricotta-stuffed ravioli finished with fresh black truffle shavings. Savory mains feature penne tossed with mussels in a robust tomato base, while pan-seared branzino appears with wild chanterelles. The meal concludes with reliably executed tiramisu or panna cotta.
Gault & Millau awarded this establishment thirteen points in 2026, specifically highlighting how challenging it remains to locate authentic Italian cooking in rural Switzerland. The reviewers noted the careful balance between rustic preparation and modern plating, pointing to the sage-infused jus accompanying saltimbocca as a clear example. The score reflects a consistent dedication to ingredient quality rather than culinary experimentation.
Recognition
Ambience