The story
Osteria Tremola San Gottardo anchors itself in the heart of Airolo, offering a distinct take on Ticino cuisine where the rhythm of the seasons dictates every plate. Here, Gault & Millau awarded a score of 15 for 2026, recognizing a kitchen that values substance over spectacle. Chef Luca Brughelli guides the cooking with a philosophy rooted in sincerity and the rediscovery of ancient flavors. He champions local produce and elevates ingredients often overlooked, turning humble elements into expressions of craft. His partner, cook Ruun Cali, adds her own layer to this approach, focusing on the revitalization of regional treasures.
The menu reveals creativity through texture and temperature contrasts. Guests encounter warm spinach paired with a softly poached egg, a dish that lives entirely on balance rather than complexity. An earthy chicory soup arrives topped with a sharp lime sorbet, cutting through the richness with acid. For the main course, whitefish from Lago Maggiore appears alongside a fine pea purée and vegetables drawn from the kitchen's own garden. Even the bread carries an unexpected note, served with a bitter, floral butter infused with hops.
The dining room sits within a centenary building where exposed stone walls meet modern comforts. The space reflects a deep connection to the surrounding peaks and the legendary Tremola road nearby. Patron Tania Brughelli manages the front of house, guiding wine selections toward regional bottles and organic options while also highlighting rare collector's labels. She stands beside Luca, who has led the kitchen since 2008. The meal concludes with a new interpretation of tiramisu, a dessert crafted to stay in memory long after crossing the mountain passes above.
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