The story
The Chedi Andermatt in Andermatt frames its Japanese cooking around a strict six-eye kitchen principle. Dominik Sato and Fabio Toffolon treat every prep stage as a shared decision rather than a top-down directive. Their approach shows clearly in the broth work, where enoki mushrooms and sansho pepper anchor a light dashi served alongside shiso and hijiki. This collaborative method earned them recognition as rising stars and an eighteen-point GaultMillau score.
This Japanese culinary style balances delicate seafood preparations with robust char-grilled proteins. Hand-dived Norwegian scallops arrive with spinach and sudachi, while flamed saba mackerel sits beside a bright ají amarillo vinaigrette. Guests often reserve space for emperor lobster grilled over Binchotan charcoal, then finished with pumpkin and white miso. Each plate relies on precise temperature control and sourced ingredients like Koshihikari rice from Fukui or imported kujo negi leeks.
Yoshiko Sato designs the sweet courses after the savory service concludes. Her chocolate preparations blend seventy percent cacao with yuzu pearls and ginger spheres to cut through richer proteins. The dining area maintains a quiet tempo that matches the meticulous plating style. Patrons can extend the evening in the adjacent wine library, where plush seating overlooks curated sparkling selections and regular producer tastings.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Ras Al Khaimah, Doha, Shanghai, Oman: Executive Chef André Kaiser is a well-traveled man, experienced in sprawling hotels with large kitchen brigades. He now calls the shots at The Chedi Andermatt. His particular forte is the hotel’s second dining venue, The Restaurant. He has adopted the concept from his predecessors. Every ingredient is available in either an Asian or a Swiss-European version. It’s fun for the guest, stress for the guys (and the few women) in the four kitchens, driven by the chef via walkie-talkie. Dim sums are also back on the menu, preferably in classic, not overly complicated variations. We happily surfed between Europe and Asia, starting with Lostallo salmon. It was cured in sake and served with a pleasantly measured horseradish sauce. Our sommelier’s decision to pair it with a Swiss sake (Kyōdai Junmai, Yamasake, Knonau AG) was highly attentive. The mushroom consommé with a quark dumpling was impeccable, and the pappardelle that followed was the evening's eye-catcher: huge sheets of pasta concealed braised chunks of Andermatter Wagyu. The heavy cheese sauce paired with it was hardly the best choice for summer, but flawless in flavor. We quite liked the Alpine trout with barley, zucchini, and a few grains of Oona caviar in a beurre blanc. That cannot be said of the first course: an overdose of sprouts wrapped in duck ham, accompanied by miso, passion fruit, mango, and berries. Only the pan-fried foie gras on top was truly good. Excellent wine pairing (Syrah from "Rookie of the Year" Alex Stauffer from Ollon VS!), very friendly and competent service. Starting capital for the new chef: 14 points.
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