Gault&Millau — 13
There is no rush in Goms, and certainly not in the cozy “Tenne,” where local Fernando Michlig has been serving solid, traditional home-style cuisine for years. As always, the duck liver terrine was first-rate, cleverly paired with a finely aromatic spice cake. The vegetarian tartare, by contrast, was less harmonious, failing to truly complement the Sbrinz panna cotta. This was easily offset by the truffled parmesan foam soup, and the main course also impressed: young restaurateur Michlig served a tender and well-spiced beef stroganoff with noodles and winter vegetables.
The dessert fell slightly short. In the trio of pear, caramel, and tonka bean mousse, the fruit dominated and there was hardly any trace of caramel. Service was relaxed and very friendly, the wine list features numerous Valais crus, and overall, the value for money is excellent. Michlig can also handle fine dining. He proves this next door at the “Piocher”: a surprise menu for just four tables! “We cook what we enjoy,” says the boss, who is also a passionate hunter. Not surprisingly, the wine is supplied by Valais top winemaker Thierry Constantin.