The story
Mandarin Oriental Geneva serves distinguished modern Japanese cuisine along the Rhône, recently earning a sixteen-point Gault&Millau rating for its dedicated dining room. A former pupil of Nobu Matsuhisa, Chef Mitsuru Tsukada approaches his Japanese cooking with disciplined precision, emphasizing ingredient quality over theatrical presentation. He layers traditional techniques with contemporary plating, allowing textures and temperatures to define each course rather than heavy sauces.
Visitors consistently highlight the amberjack sashimi and grilled turbot nigiri for their clean execution and steady knife work. The menu shifts toward richer profiles with lamb chops accompanied by eggplant caviar, while lighter preparations feature langoustines resting in a sharp fermented lemon sauce. Desserts maintain this balance, concluding meals with a mango and yuzu composition finished by delicate coconut notes.
A separate brasserie space operates under a different scoring system, recognized by Gault&Millau for its ambitious chef residency program. Following previous stints by Vineet Bhatia and Gastón Acurio, British-Israeli chef Yotam Ottolenghi currently leads the kitchen with deputy Maxime Martin. Ottolenghi’s Mediterranean-leaning selections include grilled Gambero Rosso shrimp paired with roasted artichokes, complemented by spiced lamb shoulder and lovage-infused crispy chicken.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
The Geneva five-star Mandarin Oriental has made international chef pop-ups its hallmark. Following Indian chef Vineet Bhatia and Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio, the series now features British-Israeli superstar Yotam Ottolenghi, whose cookbooks sell exceptionally well worldwide. For his first location outside the UK, he has appointed Maxime Martin as his deputy. The elegant brasserie offers a tempting menu with far less tempting prices—the wine list is outright exorbitant. We shared a few tiny hummus bites drizzled with olive oil, paid six francs for bread, and had sides billed separately. But what arrived on our plates was thoroughly convincing: the grilled Gambero Rosso duo transported us straight to the sea, the nutty artichokes delivered pure indulgence, and the fried leek with yuzu cream was a true delicacy. The fish balls in tomato sauce, lamb shoulder with cardamom, and crispy chicken served with potatoes, preserved lemon, and lovage were all executed flawlessly. Competent service.
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