Ustria Steila

The story

Ustria Steila Ilanz: Refined Swiss Regional Cooking in an Architectural Gem

The Chef and the Kitchen

Ustria Steila in Ilanz presents a focused approach to Swiss regional cooking, guided by chef Johannes Gnade and his partner Ronny. Their philosophy treats local ingredients not as nostalgic placeholders but as precise culinary material. This exacting standard earned the kitchen a 13-point rating from Gault&Millau for 2026. Critics note the preparation remains demanding yet consistently grounded in the surrounding Surselva landscape.

Signature Preparations

The menu builds its narrative around pasture-raised Limousin cattle grazing behind the village church. Johannes serves the sirloin with exact timing alongside a lukewarm pastrami finished with strongly smoked aromatics and confit kirsch tomatoes. Seasonal vegetables shift the spotlight to a crisp field bean falafel paired with regional yogurt and mint cucumber salad. This Alpine cuisine deliberately avoids heavy tradition, using aged Ziger from Brigels to challenge palates before finishing with a rustic oat scrubble and sour cream ice cream.

Space and Setting

The dining environment originates from the clear architectural language of Bündner architect Gion A. Caminada. Visitors enter a room anchored by a central fireplace, adjacent to a traditional Stiva lounge and a quiet library. Large windows frame the valley while a dedicated sun terrace extends the meal into daylight hours. Ronny manages the floor with quiet attention, allowing the clean lines of the building and the steady rhythm of the service to complement every course of their contemporary Swiss regional cooking.