The story
Modern European cuisine at Giardino Ascona in Locarno begins with a disciplined kitchen led by executive chef Reto Brändli. His methods reflect years at Berlin’s Hotel Adlon and early apprenticeships under Swiss masters. Gault&Millau recently named him rising chef of the year after tracking his consistent progression. The menu balances Scandinavian restraint with Italian cooking, allowing each component to speak without interference.
While Italian-inspired dishes often rely on heavy reductions, these plates build through layered textures. The Ei Royal presents chive custard beneath egg yolk foam and shaved yolk, anchored by blini croutons and Imperial caviar. A knusprige Knusperrolle accompanies tartare from Gamba blanca prawns, while a separate croustade pairs old cow tartare with Kalix caviar. Heat appears sparingly but effectively.
The dining room sits within a property defined by water features and mature plantings. Lily pads float across still ponds while shaded terraces catch the afternoon light. Guests move between relaxed poolside lunches and the more formal evening service without friction. Staff anticipate needs before questions arise, guided by restaurant manager Theresa Windhofer and pastry lead Antje Haaser.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Good things take time. Anyone ordering a proper risotto should be prepared to wait twenty minutes. The robust spaghetti from Gentile in Gragnano also require time: “Twelve minutes in the water, then another four in the pan,” shares Giardino’s executive chef, Francesco Leone, whose name has a pleasant ring to it. The spaghettoni with fresh clams were excellent. The starter was just as good: Cantabrian anchovies, served straight from the can (!), with whipped butter and hearty Maggia bread. Hotel guests cross paths with the chef twice: at midday during a relaxed poolside lunch, and in the evening at the secondary restaurant, Hide & Seek. In the evening at the Ristorante, Chef Leone faced more pressure: a packed house, long tables, and numerous special requests. And a few missteps: the Italian asparagus was woody despite peak season, and the asparagus soup with Pugliese stracciatella was overly mushy. The sautéed sole of questionable origin (Netherlands) was disappointing: while the fried turbot tasted fine, it was highly inconvenient to eat. We had to remove the bones ourselves; something that would normally be handled by the waiter in a five-star hotel. Furthermore, there was absolutely no trace of the promised Amalfi lemons in the thick sauce. No freshness, no acidity. We fared better with the starters (buckwheat tartlets with Ticino fresh cheese, salmon tartare, and horseradish in a sachet). And two dishes truly shined: ones we had previously enjoyed with the chef last winter at Giardino Mountain in St. Moritz-Champfèr: a tuna rose with soy, sesame, horseradish, and kohlrabi broth, and spaghettoni with lobster and chili.
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