The story
Located in Locarno, Hotel Villa Emden anchors its modern Ticino cuisine to the soil of the Isole di Brissago. Chef João Antunes walks daily through the estate’s botanical park to select vegetables, herbs, and edible flowers. This direct garden-to-kitchen workflow has drawn consistent praise from critics, including a 14-point Gault&Millau recognition. Light marble surfaces and natural linen curtains define the dining room, ensuring the food remains the focal point.
The evening menu unfolds over seven courses that trace the island’s settlement history. An aperitif featuring ginger, lemon, and garden shiso opens the service, followed by a herb sorbet layered over goat cheese mousse. Grilled felchen fillets appear alongside verjus foam, fried spinach, and chamomile blossoms, while a wild fennel risotto incorporates fermented lemon and sour cream. A Black Angus entrecote finished with sweet potato chips and vadouvan sauce closes the savory sequence, illustrating how contemporary Ticino cuisine balances heritage with technique.
Diners settle into a sunlit terrace hall designed for quiet conversation. The service team guides the pacing with precision, including a tableside herbal infusion prepared by the head of service. The meal concludes with a white chocolate mousse paired with balsamic vinegar and apple sorbet. Only ten guest rooms remain above the restaurant, preserving the intimate scale of the property.
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