The story
At Alter Torkel – Huus vum Bündner Wii in Maienfeld, the order of things is reversed: the wine comes first. The kitchen, headed by chef David Esser, builds a seasonal Swiss cuisine menu around 21 open wines from Graubünden. Every dish is conceived to complement a specific glass, not the other way around. The result is a dining experience that feels both precise and spontaneous, rooted in the region’s vineyards.
The building dates back to the 17th century, when it served as a communal wine press for the vintners of Jenins. In 1968, the Graubünden Wine Association acquired it, gradually transforming it from a simple tavern into a full restaurant. A modern extension, designed by architect Pablo Horváth, opened in 2016, adding a new kitchen and a dedicated space for presenting the wines of Graubünden. Since 2020, owners Julia and Oliver Friedrich have run the house, preserving the original press beam while building something entirely new.
Oliver Friedrich, named GaultMillau Sommelier of the Year in 2013, has assembled what the restaurant calls the world’s largest archive of Bündner wines. With over 1,500 labels – from young vintages to perfectly aged rarities – the list is curated by sommelier Jennifer List. The focus is exclusively on Graubünden, a region often called the “Burgundy of Switzerland.” More than 60 percent of its production is Pinot Noir, but 42 other grape varieties are also grown. Guests can explore them through guided tastings or simply by the glass at the table.
The signature Weindegustations Menü lets each guest build a personal wine journey of three to six courses, with each wine chosen first and the food tailored to it. The menu changes with the seasons, drawing on local Swiss produce. For those who prefer a simpler approach, the à la carte menu also follows the same wine-first philosophy. The setting – whether inside the historic Torkel room, under the pergola, or at a spot in the vineyard – adds to the sense of place.
In 2026, the restaurant earned a Michelin Recommended distinction, a testament to the consistent quality of both kitchen and cellar. Earlier accolades include Vinum’s “Newcomer of the Year” in 2020, first place in the “Focus” category at the Swiss Wine List Awards in 2022, and Falstaff’s award for the best wine list in Switzerland in 2023. These honours reflect a singular vision: to make the wines of Graubünden the centre of every meal.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
A historic house, a magnificent view over the vineyards into the Rhine Valley, excellent service, and an inventive menu – yet the main attraction at the Huus vom Bündner Wii remains the local wine. Almost every cru from the region is recommended first, from the aperitif to dessert (also available by the glass), before you choose the matching dish. But the kitchen certainly does not play second fiddle, as our menu proved. To begin, we were delighted by the spicy beef tartare with egg yolk and mustard, served alongside the crisp Cuvée blanc (Thomas Lampert). The turbot fillet, pan-seared skin-side until crisp, was served with peas, morels, and fried bacon. The black tagliatelle, sparsely topped with seafood, was less convincing, but the Swiss Wagyu Cheeseburger more than made up for it: a crispy brioche bun generously filled with minced meat and cheese, accompanied by fried potato wedges and an excellent Selecziun 2023 (Grendelmeier). The daily special of asparagus with plenty of dry-cured ham, paired with a fruity rosé (Salis), was also flawless. We finished with a delicate white chocolate mousse featuring black olives and a touch of balsamic vinegar.
Location
Facebook
Instagram