Gault&Millau — 17
An understated establishment with wooden tables and an open kitchen: in this minimalist setting, Gilles Varone’s dishes truly shine. Over the past two years, the ambitious chef has surged up the rankings of the best Valais restaurants with his venue in Savièse above Sion. He owes this to his excellent cuisine, consistently focused on regional produce, as well as his wife Letizia, who oversees the impeccable service. And to Gault Millau’s “Young Sommelier of the Year,” Lise Donier Meroz, who not only serves exquisite Valais wines but also alcohol-free beverages full of finesse. Take, for example, a clear asparagus drink that pairs perfectly with hay-steamed asparagus served alongside light hollandaise and hazelnuts. A small culinary masterpiece featuring a sophisticated interplay of contrasts and flavors is the sorrel flan with its sorbet. With the grilled zander accompanied by coriander beurre blanc, the chef presents morels with herbs and wild garlic flowers, along with an emulsion of vin jaune and Parmesan. The main course truly excels with lamb prepared in three ways: roasted on a skewer over spruce wood, served as royale, and as a stuffed fillet with a hint of fresh mint. The final points go to the desserts: a butter biscuit with hazelnut and inventive dandelion ice cream, and a mini Berliner pastry with woodruff, paired with a rhubarb variation.