Hirschen Stammheim

The story

Hirschen Stammheim Winterthur: Seasonal Swiss Cooking in a 17th-Century Inn

The Kitchen and Chef

Hirschen Stammheim in Winterthur brings a grounded approach to Swiss regional cooking under chef Manwar Shaikh. His seasonal menu earned a 13-point rating from Gault&Millau for its inspired, well-traditional plates. Since taking over the kitchen in spring 2023, he focuses on produce sourced from the surrounding Zürcher Weinland vineyards and farms. The menu balances heritage techniques with quiet precision, treating familiar ingredients with care rather than heavy embellishment.

Seasonal Plates

The kitchen’s approach to traditional Swiss cuisine shines during spring arrivals, which often feature tender green asparagus served alongside an organic fried egg, celery mousseline, and a light parmesan foam. Warmer months bring pan-fried rainbow trout fillets paired with organic potatoes, fresh asparagus, and a white wine reduction. Heartier selections include pork loin accompanied by airy quark pizokel, glazed carrots, and a sauce carrying a subtle smoke note. Each dish follows a clear structure that respects the ingredient rather than overwhelming it.

Architecture and Setting

The five-storey half-timbered main building dates back to 1684, when Johannes Wehrli established the property as a manor house and working estate. A picturesque three-storey bay window was added to the gabled façade in 1730, while painted Renaissance doors still frame the upper floors today. Restorations completed across multiple decades preserved original elements like a sixteenth-century wattle-and-daub wall and historic tiled stoves. Visitors dine in spaces that retain their quiet weight, with afternoon light filtering through timber beams onto wooden tables.

Wine and Finishers

This commitment to regional Swiss cooking extends to the cellar, which prioritises labels from the immediate Zürich wine country. The list features varieties like Riesling x Sylvaner, Räuschling, and Pinot gris grown across thirty-six hectares of continuous vineyards. These bottles pair naturally with the kitchen’s straightforward preparations. Desserts follow the same seasonal rhythm, rounding out meals with lighter options such as rhubarb tiramisu that cuts through richer courses. The selection remains focused on provenance, offering guests a direct taste of the local terroir.