The story
At Mont Cervin Palace in Zermatt, an uncompromising Italian kitchen operates under Resident Chef Vincenzo Tedeschi. Eleven cooks from the Capri Palace winter over in the Alps. Tedeschi applies techniques learned from Salvatore Elefante and adapts recipes originally crafted by Andrea Migliaccio. This precise approach explains the seventeen point Gault&Millau rating awarded this year.
The menu blends coastal tradition with Alpine ingredients while maintaining a strict southern Italian identity. Balfegó tuna ventresca arrives alongside jalapeño, cucumber, and buffalo milk yogurt. Housemade tagliolini with red prawns and Apulian burrata stands next to Neapolitan paccheri slow cooked with veal overnight.
Guests settle into a setting where service feels direct rather than theatrical. The patisserie closes each meal with olive oil ice cream, chocolate pralines, and cantucci biscuits. Sommelier Vincenzo Riccio pairs these sweets with rare Bordeaux bottles from the owner’s private cellar. This reliable Italian standard keeps the dining room consistently full.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
A massive charcoal grill dominates the wood-paneled, lively “Grill.” However, our path to a good cut of meat proved bumpier this time than usual. The vegetarian starter was a complete disappointment, featuring flavorless herb oyster mushrooms, unpleasantly bitter kale sprouts, and a parsnip-turmeric purée that was at best adequate. The Jerusalem artichoke foam soup fared better, brightened with juicy sweetbreads and skillfully paired with goat cheese and hazelnuts. Surprisingly, the grilled main courses also failed to fully impress. The marinated lamb medallions were quite tough, though the accompanying gratin was at least decent. Of a completely different caliber was the 300-gram, incredibly tender ribeye steak from Uruguayan “Taurus Gold” beef, served with a robust chimichurri sauce, albeit unfortunately accompanied by basic fries. Even so, the spectacularly table-flambéed baba au rhum with exotic fruits could not quite salvage the evening.
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