The story
Chesa Colani in Madulain anchors Paolo Casanova's Swiss-Italian cooking in the Engadin valley, where the chef creates with absolute respect for the raw material. His commitment to sustainability recently earned him the title of Green Chef of the Year from Gault&Millau and Bio Suisse, while his technical precision secures 17 points from the guide. The menu reflects this dual focus, combining hyper-local foraging with international imports. Chefs gather dandelions in May and mushrooms in September, yet the plate also features Sicilian red prawns and fermented vegetables that push beyond regional boundaries.
The dishes showcase a chef unafraid of structural experimentation and unexpected flavor combinations. A standout starter presents tartara di cervo accompanied by potato chips embedded with cloves, marinated quail eggs, and litchi, balancing game richness with bright acidity. Fish courses demonstrate equal inventiveness, such as the zander garden served on barley with burnt leek bottarga and fermented purple cabbage. Service extends this creativity to the finish line, where desserts like Bee or Not to Bee deploy a chestnut honey honeycomb, chamomile foam, and dandelion bavaroise to delight the palate with contrasting textures.
Guests dine in the Stüva, a space styled puristically in wood that honors the architectural traditions of the Engadin while framing the modern gastronomy. The warm timber environment provides a grounded counterpoint to the precise plating of dishes like marmot tortellini swimming in hay beurre blanc with reindeer lichen. The atmosphere supports a rigorous service rhythm, where staff expertly explain the complex components of each course. An extensive wine list spanning over 200 positions offers ample opportunities to find perfect pairings for the nuanced profiles of Casanova's seasonal creations.
Recognition
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