The story
At La Réserve Eden au Lac Zurich, Executive Chef Marco Ortolani directs a refined Italian cuisine program rooted in traditional technique. He translates his years of training into precise pasta work and careful meat preparation, expecting his brigade to honor classic methods while adapting to seasonal shifts. This disciplined execution earned the kitchen seventeen points from Gault&Millau, marking it among the city’s most consistent dining addresses. The kitchen runs quietly, prioritizing ingredient integrity over unnecessary complexity.
Thin dough parcels filled with ossobuco, rabbit, and pork neck arrive as ravioli del plin, a shape the chef learned at home and now considers essential. Crisp crackling from Thurgau apple-fed pig wraps hoisin-glazed shoulder in a steamed bun, bridging European and Asian flavors while keeping the focus firmly on Italian cuisine. Turbot served tableside with Sardinian artichoke and dried morels demonstrates how raw materials dictate the final composition. Every course follows a clear logic, letting the produce carry the conversation.
Large bay windows along the ground floor frame the street outside, flooding the space with natural light during morning service. Natural leather seating and Ara Starck’s multicolored stained glass guide attention toward the open kitchen and the passing of plates. A glass elevator transports guests upward to a tree-lined roof terrace, where summer snacks pair with panoramic views of the city skyline. The architecture stays calm, allowing the food to command the room.
Pastry chefs Nicolas Saccà and Julien Coulomb collaborate on a tall Grand Marnier soufflé studded with clementine segments, balancing bitterness against citrus sweetness. A chilled cucumber soup featuring king crab and lemongrass appears earlier in the menu, proving that temperature play extends well beyond dessert. The pastry team rotates regional fruits and aged spirits to keep the finish fresh across changing seasons. Guests finish their meals with measured precision rather than overwhelming richness.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
We were lucky. To be precise, Thurgau apple-fed pork. Executive Chef Marco Ortolani, always up for bold twists, put it in the oven for a few hours until even the ears turned beautifully crisp. The boss and his new La Muña head chef, Sandeep Tamang, are thrilled with the quality of the pig and prepare the “Suckling Pig from Turgovia” in a way that fits seamlessly into the Peruvian-Japanese La Muña concept: the belly is served elegantly sliced alongside green apple (Sandeep: “After all, the pigs eat apples too.”), while shoulder pieces and crispy crackling are wrapped in a giant bao bun with cabbage salad and hoisin sauce. That’s how it’s done at La Muña on the magical rooftop terrace of La Réserve Zurich. Ortolani aims to outshine the other La Muñas in the Reybier Group, and he’s pulling it off with a fresh kitchen brigade. So where exactly is his star protégé Domenico Zizzi, who previously earned 16 points for the house? In exile, more precisely at the Adula in Flims. He is serving there as executive chef for the first time. The little pig wasn’t the day’s only surprise. A few specials (still) off-menu were added: to start, leche de tigre with Japanese tamago and a fried shiso leaf with Australian black truffle. Followed by a fantastic, chilled cucumber soup with king crab, avocado, lime, lemongrass, and ginger. A detour into the world of sushi: top-tier otoro, nigiri, and gunkan paired with outstandingly good sushi rice. Their handling of carabinero also impressed us: we received the red prawn medallions with Oscietra caviar, accompanied by fried carabinero heads nestled in a thin tempura batter. Ortolani’s wild ride toward fine-dining heaven isn’t really necessary. The classic La Muña menu works just fine too: Suzuki ceviche, hamachi tiradito, shrimp gyoza, grilled chicken with kumquat, coriander, and teriyaki. And naturally, “gindara”—the black cod marinated in miso—is never missing from the offering. Three different business lunches are available at midday.
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