The story
At the Mandarin Oriental Savoy in Zurich, Chef Dario Moresco directs the Orsini kitchen with a clear vision for modern Italian cooking. His approach draws on monthly oversight from two-star mentor Antonio Guida, who travels from Milan to calibrate techniques alongside the brigade. Moresco selected his own staff and secured substantial purchasing budgets to build what he terms Orsini 2.0. The Italian kitchen now operates as a cohesive unit where regional recipes serve as structural foundations rather than rigid templates.
Langoustines arrive broiled beneath the salamander, split cleanly between a salted Marsala-sabayon and a bright saffron foam. Guests typically begin with fried chickpea patties dressed with pecorino and shaved black truffle, followed by a refined carpione featuring red prawns marinated with shiso and a hand-picked sambuka flower. Green tagliatelle made from pacojet-shredded nettles carries a marine pesto and steamed Gillardeau oysters, while plin pasta wraps swordfish in a ligurian cacciucco reduction. Every dish relies on precise heat management and strict ingredient sourcing.
The hotel’s all-day dining room follows a separate operational rhythm, yet maintains consistent standards across its rotating menu. Executive Chef Daniele Tortomasi prepares dishes ranging from pan-seared hamachi paired with cucumber-passion fruit sorbet to a classical lièvre à la royale finished with Périgord truffle. Pastry work falls to Andy Vorbusch, whose caramelized French toast and cherry jelly balance sweetness through careful texture layering. Gault&Millau inspectors have awarded seventeen points to the Italian dining room and fifteen to the brasserie.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Thirty-eight dishes must appear on the menu—that is the international standard for all-day dining restaurants in Mandarin Oriental hotels. Consequently, the Zurich location on Paradeplatz increased the number of dishes available for selection, which inevitably limited the effort that could be invested in each individual dish. As a result, the Filet Wellington, for instance, has unfortunately been removed from the menu. Fortunately, the reality that "more means less" here does not compromise the quality of the food. The summery Japanese hamachi en tigres de leche, boasting a highly appealing flavor profile and a refreshing cucumber-passion fruit sorbet, is straightforward yet simply outstanding. The beef tartare with lightly poached Gillardeau Oyster No. 2 and a truffle-coriander vinaigrette strikes a harmonious balance despite its unexpected pairing, while the braised lamb shank with potato espuma and spinach is a truly exceptional spoon dish. The only slight misstep occurs with the scallops served with candied Buddha’s hand and beurre blanc, where the salmon roe added to the sauce alongside N25 caviar disrupts the harmony with an overly pronounced fish flavor. The daily special features "Lièvre à la royale," consisting of braised hare, a thin layer of foie gras, Périgord truffle, a roasted jus with currants, Albufera sauce, and finally, venison loin from Alfred von Escher’s private larder. It showcases flawless classical technique executed at a high level. The desserts are crafted by acclaimed pastry chef Andy Vorbusch, and we immediately order two: the caramelized French toast with pear waffle sorbet and glazed fruits is just as refined and delicious as the cherry jelly accompanied by chestnut mousse and baked apple sorbet. P.S.: Executive Chef Benjamin Halat has left the Mandarin Oriental. Since its opening, celebrated chef Daniele Tortomasi has been heading the Brasserie kitchen.
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