Zum Pflugstein

good quality, good value cooking

High above Lake Zurich in the Riegelhaus, the service presented the whole loup de mer in a salt crust at the table, gently tapping the perfectly cooked fish from its snow-white coating and plating it with couscous, half a lemon, matchstick fries, spinach leaves, and a sweet-and-tangy Croatian olive oil. During our early spring visit, we sat in the cozy dining room rather than on the dream terrace, and ordered a second main course: a “Pflugstein” classic—juicy minced meat patties served with still slightly crisp vegetables (cauliflower, carrots, green asparagus, peas) and excellent mashed potatoes. Before and after the main courses came well-matched starters and complementary desserts: to begin, a chicory salad with avocado, cherry tomatoes, walnuts, and blueberries dressed in a sweet balsamic vinaigrette. A lukewarm, butter-tender carpaccio of veal tongue with a vegetable vinaigrette. And artichoke hearts with cherry tomatoes, toasted pine nuts, and arugula. To finish, a seasonal rhubarb tartlet with sour cream ice cream and (less seasonal) berries. Or an affogato (“It always works!”), which at the “Pflugstein” is served in reverse: here, the vanilla ice cream isn’t poured into the espresso, but rather the other way around. Hostess Jeannine Meili and head chef Maria Appel simply have the knack for it: guests are not startled by trendy modern gimmicks here—but the classics never feel dated.