Eileen’s by Steve Barringer

An upbeat soundtrack of retro funk and soul combines with dark blue walls and ceilings to create a near-nightclub vibe at this highly popular little town-centre venue. Touch-sensitive table lights add to the feel. Steve Barringer runs a busy kitchen that’s open to view between the two split-level dining rooms, and he offers a five- or seven-course tasting menu with seasonal touches, ample helpings and creamy purées aplenty. A late-autumn visit opened brightly with Swiss milk bread (warm and brioche-like) and a mound of whipped butter scattered with onion powder, followed by a dense log of parsnip – freshly breadcrumbed, deep-fried and served with parsnip purée, black garlic ketchup and spicy harissa emulsion. Next, the highlight: a delicate, lightly smoked haddock fillet matched with small chunks of stewed smoked eel, cubes of zesty raw apple, and celeriac purée in a celeriac broth – all scattered with sea purslane leaves. Such finely tuned balance wasn’t as evident in the following two courses. Braised beef cheek (hidden under a heap of Parmesan) was tender and flavourful, but pickled sheets of swede couldn’t counter the richness of Parmesan custard, beef-fat roasted swede and swede purée. Likewise, expertly cooked mallard breast came with a succulent confit leg croquette, onion purée, fried potato terrine and nuggets of Stilton – outgunning the thin slices of salted pear and pickled red onion. We were left yearning for simple green vegetables. To finish, milk chocolate crémeux with caramel ice cream was equally indulgent, the luscious texture nicely juxtaposed with crunchy chocolate and almond crumble. Amenable, knowledgeable staff are generally on point when it comes to pacing proceedings (diners must arrive between 7pm and 8pm). To drink, cocktails and gins supplement the modest choice of wine, though the £60 flight contains a selection not on the list. Yes, our meal had too much yang, not enough yin, but the kitchen has ample skill and the clamour for seats keeps things buzzing – even midweek.