Duncombe Arms

The story

Duncombe Arms, Ashbourne: Modern British Pub with Michelin Bib Gourmand

Duncombe Arms, Ashbourne

In the Staffordshire village of Ellastone, the Duncombe Arms is what happens when a boarded-up pub finds the right custodians. Owners Johnny and Laura Greenall, whose combined experience spans brewing, cooking and hospitality, reopened the 1850s inn in March 2012 after an extensive renovation. The project became personal when Laura’s mother linked the pub’s name to her own maiden family crest on the sign outside. Today, the place pairs original snugs and blazing fires with an airy, light-filled dining extension and a spacious garden facing the Dove Valley.

The kitchen is led by Head Chef Scott Law, who forages locally and tends a kitchen garden, working with nearby farmers for beef and lamb from Dunwood Farm and with local huntsmen for game in autumn and winter. Menus mix pub classics with more adventurous Modern British dishes, changing constantly to reflect seasonal availability. All breads, sauces, stocks and ice creams are made in house. Puddings are a highlight, particularly the feather-light soufflés – praline, rhubarb and ginger, or prune and Armagnac – and a cheeseboard that features local stars like Colston Bassett Blue Stilton and Kidderton Ash.

This quality has earned the Duncombe Arms a Michelin Bib Gourmand, which celebrates good quality, good value cooking. The pub is also regularly named among the best dining pubs in the country.

General Manager James Oddy oversees a drinks list that balances local character with serious ambition. A 200-strong wine list offers 36 choices by the glass via Coravin. Real ales include Marston’s Pedigree from nearby Burton upon Trent, the house Duncombe Ale, and rotating guests from small local breweries. The gin menu runs to 28 varieties, from classic Greenall’s to creative modern styles, and 25 malt whiskies are on offer. The pub’s stated aim is to be both a well-loved local and a dining destination – and with this cooking and hospitality, it succeeds on both fronts.