The story
Dilsk sits within the iconic Drakes Hotel on Brighton’s Marine Parade, looking out over the English Channel. It is the first joint venture from chef Tom Stephens and front of house manager Madeleine Riches, who together bring over forty years of industry experience. The restaurant opened in May 2023 and was quickly recognised by the Michelin Guide, which praised it as “the epitome of modern British cuisine.”
Tom’s cooking is grounded in the landscape around him. He grew up on his grandparents’ farm in Hampshire, where his grandmother – a keen horticulturist – first sparked his love of food. After training under Michelin-starred chefs Tom Kerridge and Steve Drake, he worked in London at Pied à Terre and Fera at Claridge’s under Simon Rogan. In 2019 he moved to Brighton, becoming head chef at the celebrated 64 Degrees before opening Dilsk with Madeleine.
Dilsk offers a refined, flavour-led journey through modern British cuisine. Two tasting menus are available – a short version at £65 and a full menu at £95 – alongside a set lunch and dinner option. Every dish is built from meticulously sourced produce gathered from ethical growers and small local suppliers across East Sussex, from the South Downs to the coast. An optional wine pairing, created by Madeleine, runs alongside each course, plus a non-alcoholic pairing and an extensive wine list.
The space is elegant yet relaxed – fine dining without stiffness. The kitchen’s restrained modern technique is founded in classical methodology, letting the quality of the ingredients speak. Whether it’s Orkney scallop with roe butter hollandaise or South Downs fallow deer with wild garlic, each plate is precise and purposeful. Dilsk is a restaurant that knows exactly what it is: a small, serious, welcoming place to eat well by the sea.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Located in the basement of Drakes Hotel, this neutrally attired dining room does the job without stirring high emotions – though the soundtrack might well push the limits of those not revived by memories of holidays in Ibiza. That said, readers concur that Dilsk is one of Brighton's foremost dining experiences. Tom Stephens has a CV packed with high-profile mentors, including Tom Kerridge and Simon Rogan, and delivers his version of modern British dining via a trio of menus – a three-course lunch (a great entry point), and a six- or ten-course taster. The full repertoire kicks off with snacks, the pick being a smoked mackerel pâté with perry jelly and a squid-ink tuile. Next up, the signature lightly poached oyster with trout roe, pickled radish and a custard of dilsk (another name for dulse, the slippery red seaweed) – a dish that positively dazzles with colour and maritime flavours. Bread is a course in itself: a laminated brioche/croissant hybrid with a rich, potent butter, garlic and crispy black cabbage. This is food in which sauces play off against impressive core ingredients sourced from the local area: a turnip dashi creation is a joyous umami hit when served with smoked eel and Brighton salami; a combo of squash, caviar and bone marrow elevates a piece of BBQ monkfish; and caramelised cream with ceps and truffle (the accompaniment to pink partridge breast) is simply ‘divine’. Three dessert courses come with the full menu, the standout being a confection involving 71% Nicaraguan chocolate and rapeseed oil smoked over Earl Grey tea and barley miso – complex, comforting and delicious. Service is informed, dedicated and unobtrusive. The wine list is arranged by style, with some organic offerings but slim pickings under £35 a bottle.
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