The Duck Inn

Our spies have been quick to let us know that this rural 17th-century inn has reopened with a talented chef-proprietor at the helm. Locally famous for its connection to Ian Fleming – a blue wall plaque states this is where the James Bond author wrote You Only Live Twice – the revitalised Duck is more a dining destination than a place to drop in, but has not forsaken its pub roots: expect log fires in winter, and drinks on the front terrace on sunny days. The countryside rolls out all around – it's all very peaceful. Kyle Hadley-Quinn has a commendable commitment to food that matches this setting, and his short, regularly changing menu roams the immediate area, scooping up beef from the farm opposite (commemorated in the ‘over the road’ burger), locally shot venison, local asparagus and wild garlic to populate a menu that’s bright with seasonality. The result is a repertoire that ranges from house pickles (so good we wanted to buy some to take home) to cured and blowtorched cubes of trout, served with a refreshing fennel and blood-orange salad dotted with fennel granita. To follow, perfectly cooked wild sea bass comes with a crunchy kohlrabi and lobster slaw, plus a rich lobster bisque on the side. Dessert might bring a very light stem ginger sponge with miso caramel and Anno rum ice cream. The wine list (starting at £23) is built on appeal and value. Service is leisurely paced and charming.