The story
On Northgate Street, in the heart of Chester city centre, Covino is a small, wine-led restaurant and bar that has earned a Michelin recommendation. The recognition is well placed: this is a place where the kitchen and cellar work in close, deliberate harmony.
The menu is built around seasonally guided small plates, rooted largely in French cuisine. With a one-chef kitchen, the cooking is focused and personal, changing as ingredients demand. The style is refined but unpretentious, designed to complement the wine list rather than compete with it.
That list is the other half of Covino’s identity. The cellar holds over 130 wines from around the world, ranging from iconic classics to more leftfield selections. Whether you are a seasoned enthusiast or simply curious, the team is there to guide you.
The space itself is intimate, with counter dining that puts you close to the action. There is also a private dining room and outdoor seating for warmer months. Covino operates a walk-in system for those who want only a drink, but reservations are recommended for diners.
In a city with no shortage of historic eating and drinking, Covino stands out for its clarity of purpose: a small, serious wine bar that also happens to serve very good food. The Mediterranean influence is subtle, but it surfaces in the brightness and balance of the cooking. It is a place that rewards a slow evening and a curious palate.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
If you think Covino is just a touch snug in its dimensions, be aware that when it first opened, just around the corner, it was even teensier. Tuck your elbows in, and be prepared to be seduced by a high-achieving gastronomic wine bar that has become an integral component of Chester's dynamic city centre. The midweek evening offer extends to a lunchtime start on Fridays and Saturdays (as the end of the working week beckons), and it reliably encompasses lively small-plate dining of true distinction. A combo of beetroot and tofu dressed in gochujang and sesame competes with a salad of bitter leaves, Bleu d'Auvergne and orange in the vitamin stakes. Pasta is impressive, perhaps cavatelli with Marina di Chioggia squash and sage, while proteins get motoring with salt fish beignets and tarragon mayo or the properly satiating guinea fowl with borlotti beans and root veg. The reader who commented that the winning service is 'always charming, always funny,' reminds us that being entertained is an often overlooked, but essential, aspect of happy dining. That, and a bowl of muscovado pudding with Pedro Ximénez-lashed figs, probably. The wine selection continues to impress for its imaginative range.
Location
Instagram