The story
The White Horse in Churton marks Gary Usher's debut as a pub landlord, bringing the ethos of his Sticky Walnut restaurants to this renovated hostelry near Chester. After accepting an offer on the vacant property in January 2022, Usher launched a crowdfunding campaign that raised £200,000 in twenty-four hours to fund the transformation. He spent the early days personally ripping up carpets and clearing moss before the venue reopened on 3 March 2023. Usher secured the freehold with no brewery ties, allowing complete freedom over the build. The menu centres on uncomplicated Modern British cooking, serving comforting dishes within a room adorned with vibrant food paintings and glittering light fittings. A generous conservatory connects the dining area to the outdoor terrace where dogs are welcomed.
Diners frequently order the melting pulled lamb shoulder or the Korean chicken wings dressed with pickled ginger. The kitchen turns out a solid John Dory resting in tarragon beurre blanc and a hearty handmade cheese and onion pie that proves popular across the board. Truffle and Parmesan chips arrive at the table as a reliable favourite for sharing. Desserts lean towards comfort, featuring the iconic crème brûlée or a dense triple chocolate brownie. The Sunday roast remains a focal point, built on prime cuts from UK butchers, thick dark gravy, and Yorkshire puddings that achieve a distinct rise. These Modern British classics reflect the pub's dedication to high-quality ingredients. The kitchen also prepares a crisp portion of whitebait for lighter appetites and a proper steak frites for those craving something substantial. A revised children's menu moves well past basic fish fingers, offering proper meals for families.
The kitchen drives visitor interest via a guest chef schedule that has hosted figures like Tom Kerridge and Angela Hartnett. Michel Roux Jr has also visited, alongside Mark Hix and Nathan Outlaw. This rotating lineup ensures the menu evolves while maintaining the core identity of the Modern British pub. Visitors can secure a spot in The Snug next to the fireplace or visit during the week for a two-course meal priced at £25. Saturday mornings see a bakery pop-up set up to serve locals, reinforcing the pub's role within the village. The beer selection runs deep, complementing the food with a range of craft and traditional draught options. The venue regularly hosts community events, drawing on the support received from Churton residents during the restoration phase.
Recognition
Location