Dylan’s Criccieth

After a day of beachcombing and castle-gazing, Dylan's is a tempting prospect; something to wash your face for, but relaxed enough to cope admirably with a whole family of holiday-hungry visitors (staff are friendly and unflappable). The winged Art Deco-style building, designed by Portmeirion architect Clough Williams-Ellis, offers sea views from most tables; only a lawn and few steps separate you from the beach. As you'd hope, there's a strong sense of place here, from the seasoning (Anglesey's Halen Môn sea salt, of course) to the seafood. Inspiration comes from far and wide, though, the better to please a very mixed crowd – expect anything from Anglesey lobster and scallops in a bao bun with pickled samphire to local crab in a simple salad with good brown bread. Sourdough pizzas are blistered and oozy, the kids' menu hits all the right spots without talking down, and desserts are a real highlight. Baked lemon cheesecake, with delicately candied zest and blueberries hidden inside a ball of lemon ice cream, is equalled by a simple but princely brownie. Beers, cider and whisky can be Welsh if you want them to be, while wines are accessibly priced. Other branches, at Llandudno and Menai Bridge, occupy similarly characterful buildings by the waterside.