Cú Mara

The Good Food Guide — Good

Next door to the village hall, this unassuming lochfront bistro comes with pleasing views, plus a bevy of cheerful, energetic staff and a menu offering generous, well-presented comfort food with quirky cross-border twists. Scotland meets the Big Apple in the shape of hearty New York hot dogs with haggis and Stornaway black pudding, while the daily pizza dough, authentically puffed and blistered, says ‘ ciao bella ’; elsewhere, a venison and whisky sauce on the signature 'cobbler' brings it all back home. There are smashed burgers and loaded fries too, but it’s not all riffs on takeaway favourites. Plump Shetland mussels with Speyside tequila, chilli, garlic and lime topped with samphire is an imaginative twist on a maritime margarita. Cullen skink gnocchi showcases properly peaty smoked haddock with quail's eggs, while locally brewed beer from Fyne Ales is used to make the crispiest batter for the fish and chips. With daily specials often including local shellfish, plus and a variety of small dishes and salads, you can easily mix-and-match with your pals or opt for a more traditional three-course approach. As a sweet finale, there might be cheesecake or some other home-baked treat – if you have any space left. Affordable wine options and colourful cocktails complement the feelgood food. Cú Mara is a place full of extended families, famished hillwalkers, passing travellers and villagers delighted to find such a gem on their doorstep. Be warned that it can frenetically buzzy at peak times, and booking ahead is advised in season. Takeaways are available and, on those rare, sunny, midge-free days, the outdoor picnic benches could give you the best seat in the house.

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