Café Gandolfi

Opened in 1979, Gandolfi’s is one of the city's oldest family-owned restaurants and is something of an institution, considered 'a place of pilgrimage for displaced Glaswegians'. Its distinctive stained glass and robust hand-carved furniture by sculptor Tim Stead remain timeless, though the decor now bears the scuff marks of gustative generations. 'I first started going when I was 17; 40 years on, I still visit whenever I’m back in Glasgow,' muses one loyal regular, and the restaurant's close set tables are always packed with visiting foodies and time-conscious walk-ins en route to the theatre or concerts. There’s a cheery bustle and familiarity about the place that smooths over the occasional missteps or delays at busy times. The kitchen's gutsy dishes still tread a successful line between classic and contemporary Scottish ways, although there are also confident forays across the Mediterranean and beyond. The Cullen skink is an exemplar of its kind, peaty and creamy with sourdough from the local Freedom bakery to mop it up, while an ‘nduja Scotch egg brings comfort atop a silky but punchy aïoli. There would probably be a riot if the haggis, neeps and tatties with its accompanying pickled walnut ketchup came off the menu, although lighter options such as tagliatelle with Perthshire girolles, egg yolk and crispy sage or whole sea bream with sauce vierge and broad beans impress without the need for Tam O'Shanter clichés. A satisfying slab of properly cheesy Basque cheesecake or the self-described 'chocolate nemesis' play to the Glaswegian sweet tooth and ensure you won’t leave hungry. Matching the food is a compact wine selection that spans the mid-£20 to mid-£50 price range, with most available by glass as well as the bottle – although beer and cocktails are equally popular.