Paradise at Daleside

It came as a complete surprise when, post-lockdown, Frances Atkins, the former owner and chef of the Yorke Arms at Ramsgill in Nidderdale, moved from her sophisticated restaurant with rooms to a café in the grounds of a garden centre near Harrogate. Atkins was (and remains) one of the country’s most celebrated chefs, who, over 23 years at the Yorke Arms, collected a heap of awards and accolades. Along with her long-time general manager John Tullett and head chef Roger Olive, they commissioned an Airstream caravan, parked it beside the glasshouses and set up a daytime café serving good fresh, nutritious food. They operated like this for 12 months until a purpose-built café was ready – a 60-cover, bright modern space, filled with pot plants and paintings, an open kitchen, a chef’s table and a small terrace with views across the lake. At breakfast, choose from full English, kedgeree or pancakes (with fruit compôte or bacon and maple syrup). At lunchtime, perhaps a warm cheese tart in light crisp pastry, or seared tuna with lightly pickled peppers, chorizo and little gem lettuce with Caesar dressing. You might also find lime- and ginger-seared scallops or belly pork with beans and mustard mash – the menu changes with the seasons but generally offers a dozen dishes, half of them plant-based. Dessert doubles as the afternoon tea menu with cakes, tarts and their own vanilla ice cream, mango sorbet, praline and chocolate sauce. Service from John Tullett is impeccable but it's all quite low key – Paradise might call itself a café, but the principles upheld at the garlanded Yorke Arms are just as relevant here even if dishes are less complex, less labour intensive. It has the same restrained elegance, with dishes that uphold Frances Atkins' mantra: simple, nutritious food and no messing about.