Bayte

Opened rather hesitantly in a former antiques emporium on ever-fascinating Kings Road, Bayte has settled in with great charm, answering an unmet local need for negronis, seasonal pasta dishes and biodynamically farmed meat at out-of-London prices. Co-owner Ruby Boglione's parents founded Petersham Nurseries in Richmond and she hasn't strayed far from her family's nonchalant well-travelled style. The homely yet trendy interior mixes trees in pots and bacchanalian art with bare plaster walls and a parquet floor – a cool backdrop for chef Joshua Dickinson's ‘Britalian’ cooking. Seasonal small plates might bring anything from generous bites of cured sea bream trussed with pickled radish, silken beetroot and blackberry-spiked ricotta to a note-perfect bruschetta of green tomato and lardo. Fantastic produce is at the heart of Bayte's elevated offering, and there are some ‘great pasta skills’ on show too: the pumpkin agnolotti in chicken broth with shaved fresh chestnut is a 'sublime' autumnal delight, according to one fan. You can make an affordable meal from one of the small plates and a dish of pasta, although that’s not to belittle the short selection of more substantial mains – perhaps brill with New Zealand spinach and beurre blanc, Ibérico pork or Haye Farm beef rib served the old way with bitter leaves and peppercorn sauce. The only disappointment for us was an apple and almond tart (a dessert in search of a pastry chef); alternatives such as semifreddo or whipped yoghurt with strawberries and hazelnut were more of a piece with the relaxed, deceptively simple cuisine. The wine list offers many thrilling regional Italians, a dozen by the glass (including skin-contact Sassocarlo from Tuscany) and a few French biggies, with nothing much over £100.