The Royal

good quality, good value cooking

Admirably surviving the COVID-related battering that commenced a few months after it opened, the Royal has raised the bar in St Leonards. It has done so without flash or hype, gaining a reputation for down-to-earth warmth, as well as its well-deserved status as the town’s best in show. With its spruced-up Hague Blue prow, it makes a beacon of well-considered gentrification bang opposite Warrior Square train station. The interior is unpretentious but grown-up, with quietly intriguing artwork – the perfect setting for Ben Krikorian’s well-executed, seasonal, robust cooking. Starters either veer towards classic (an irreproachable crispy pig’s head with gribiche sauce) or slightly jazzier (wild garlic soup with goat’s curd or an autumnal dish of duck ham with boozy prunes). At least two vegetarian mains (including a vegan option) might include charred hispi cabbage with tomato lentils or marrow curry with pickles. There’s also onglet and chips, as well as hake with anchoïade and superb crispy fried prawns. Very good tarts, ice creams, custards and outliers such as amazing chocolate fritters round things off. Service is responsive and on the ball. The wine list changes frequently, remaining decidedly Europhile with Berry Bros crémant by the glass and Sybille Kuntz Riesling, but also trying out New World reds that max out at £55.