The story
Hermitage Rd occupies a former ballroom in the heart of Hitchin, where soaring ceilings and monumental windows frame an interior of exposed brick and industrial ducting. The space has warmed up over two decades to become a popular gathering place that balances rustic charm with cool, idiosyncratic style. This setting anchors a menu rooted in Modern British cooking, where the open kitchen brings the energy of the pass directly to the dining room.
Head Chef Oli Sturt leads a team that brings a cosmopolitan flair to the Modern British kitchen, treating the gallery-like pass as a stage for the evening's service. Dishes are built around a wood-fired oven, which imparts smoky depth to proteins like Scottish heritage steaks and tender Cornish lamb chops. The menu traces ingredients back to their sources, featuring Maldon rock oysters, Cromer crab, and salmon from Staithe Smokehouse alongside seasonal vegetables.
Recognition from The Good Food Guide highlights the consistency of dishes that blend technique with approachable flavours. A plate of salt-baked heritage beetroot tossed with Old Winchester cheese and sherry vinegar offers a bright counterpoint to richer options like the Korean chicken nuggets served with crispy noodles and yuzu mayo. For mains, the Priors Hall Farm pork chop arrives with apple and Calvados ketchup, while desserts such as a soft floating island in crème anglaise provide a gentle finish to the meal.
The wine programme complements the food with a far-reaching selection available by the bottle or glass. Sommelier Yana curates tastings that explore regions beyond the usual suspects, including recent evenings dedicated to the emerging wines of Ukraine. The separate Wine Bar hosts monthly events and offers hand-picked selections paired with small plates, extending the restaurant's hospitality into a more intimate setting for late evenings or pre-dinner drinks.
Recognition
Location
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