River House

On the (mostly) picture-postcard riverfront by the town's 19th-century 'Bouncy Bridge', this popular Inverness fish restaurant, run by Cornish chef Allan 'Alfie' Little, is a popular local fixture – as much for its 'oyster happy hour' as its lengthy menu of Scottish seafood. Inside, heavy green-striped velvet drapes open to reveal a small L-shaped dining room with blowsy salmon-pink walls and an olive-green ceiling, plus giant circular cream lampshades lending a contemporary vibe; the whole place buzzes, with Alfie (in chef's whites) bouncing between the tiny open kitchen and the packed tables. There's a full oyster menu featuring bivalves grown and harvested by Patrick and Lucy Blow off Cape Wrath, while a separate Shetland mussel menu offers the choice of marinière, Venetian or Islay-style (with cream and a splash of whisky). From the main repertoire, a sizzling starter of Calvados-spiked Orkney crab thermidor topped with crispy panko and apple was rich and moreish, though the pecorino cheese overpowered the subtler crustacean. Mains might bring delicate, creamy Peterhead plaice topped with prawns in coriander and parsley butter with summer vegetable confit and crispy potato gnocchi or a punchier, more powerful plate of Scottish hake fillet and octopus tentacle, teetering atop a mound of chorizo, baby potatoes and caperberries tossed in a rich Rioja and tomato sauce. The dessert menu doesn't get beyond cheesecake, panna cotta and 'my better half's pavlova', but if you're a fan of old-school that probably won't matter. Seafood pairings and provenance are key factors on the drinks list, from a Shetland Reel G&T infused with foraged seaweed, pink grapefruit and mint to the flinty, fresh stone fruit of a Spanish Albariño.