The story
The Empire Cafe in Leeds offers restored Modern British dining on Fish Street, where owners Sam Pullan and Nicole Deighton have revived a site feeding workers for over 120 years. This location evolved from the 17th-century Shambles slaughterhouses to the hungry crowds queuing outside the Empire Palace Theatre in the late 1800s. After reclaiming the original red and gold signage during a 2022 renovation, the team established a space focused on old-school values paired with new-wave cookery. The menu rotates daily based on seasonal produce sourced directly from Kirkgate Market.
The kitchen centers its operation around a wall of flame rotisserie where chickens turn continuously, producing signature portions served atop dripping 'schmaltz' potatoes. That dish anchors the menu within a flexible Modern British lineup, while the grill provides slow-smoked lamb rump glazed with an apricot barbecue sauce. Oysters Rockefeller receive a regional twist, proving the kitchen's willingness to adapt classic preparations.
Dessert plates continue the theme of unexpected combinations, featuring seasonal asparagus ice cream or a bar built from fried chicken skin, dark chocolate, and caramel. These inventive sweets complement the meat-forward Modern British mains and draw praise from critics who recognize the balance of quality and approachability. The Good Food Guide awards this venue a rating for 2026, specifically commending the team for maintaining a strong profile despite the accolades of their younger sibling. This rating demonstrates how effectively the cafe merges serious technique with the relaxed spirit of a neighborhood staple.
Recognition
Location