Celebrated table

The Smithfield

Chef James Donovan leads a nose-to-tail kitchen at The Smithfield Leeds, serving grilled seafood, heritage pies, and curated wines in a celebrated former Reliance space.

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The story

The Smithfield Leeds: Seasonal Modern British Dining in a Historic Building

A kitchen rooted in seasonality and respect

The Smithfield in Leeds anchors its modern British cuisine in a historic North Street building that once housed the beloved Reliance. Head chef James Donovan took the helm after a tenure at Rochelle Canteen, bringing a disciplined approach that recently earned a Good Food Guide rating. The team works directly with local suppliers, treating seasonal ingredients as the permanent foundation for every plate. This practical framework encourages a nose-to-tail methodology within this British kitchen, where vegetable trimmings and offal receive the same careful attention as premium cuts.

Charred edges and hearty foundations

The open grill leaves a pleasing bitterness across vegetables like leeks served alongside romesco sauce and fennel. Pan-fried coley arrives crisp on the outside while staying moist inside, often finished with a precise dollop of gribiche or a rich bisque. Heavier plates draw from the same resourceful tradition, featuring herb-fed chicken baked in thick pastry and drenched in tarragon gravy. Those sides are paired with substantial chips that hold their shape through the journey to the table.

Cellar selections and quiet corners

Guests can explore a wine list curated by the previous owners through their venture Wayward Wines, which prioritizes honest producers over heavy labels. Tap handles rotate with pale ales and stouts from Crooked Brewing, located nearby at Leeds East Airport. The dining room maintains a steady pace, accommodating both intimate suppers and larger gatherings behind closed doors. Table service runs smoothly throughout the evening, keeping the focus squarely on the food.

Recognition

Awards & accolades

2026
The Good Food Guide
Good

Details

At a glance

The Good Food Guide 2026 — Good
Cuisines Modern British
Services Private Parties, Table Service

History

On the record

2026
The Good Food Guide — Good

Opening in one of the city’s most hallowed restaurant sites was always going to invite comparison. In its day, the Reliance was a much-loved neighbourhood haunt that became the gateway drug for a generation of Leeds foodies, and a return to its burgundy paint job was a statement of intent from its new owners. Head chef James Donovan's CV includes Clerkenwell's Rochelle Canteen, and you don't have to do much dusting to see the Fergus and Margot Henderson's nose-to-tail fingerprints: pig's head, ox heart, hogget, and a meritocratic approach to the menu with produce leading the way – occasionally nudged along by a well-timed dollop of gribiche or a slick of bisque. Much of the food comes with a lick of flame from the grill, adding a pleasing bitterness to the leeks on romesco and fennel served alongside perfectly pan-fried coley. Thick-crusted pies come filled with herb-fed chicken in tarragon gravy and are accompanied by 'biblically accurate' chips. Given that the Reliance's owners have moved on to running their business, Wayward Wines, it's not surprising that the bottle list is drawn from their selection, while the beer taps out front feature ales from new owners Crooked Brewing, a microbrewery based at Leeds East Airport.

Established

Location

Find us

76-78 North Street, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS2 7PN
Leeds, United Kingdom
info@thesmithfieldleeds.com
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Map showing The Smithfield